The Italian Riviera.

The Cinque Terre is northern Italy's low-brow version of the French Riviera. It consists of 5 [cinque, pronounced cheen-kweh], coastal seaside villages. Each village is connected to the next by walking paths, by train and by boat. The atmosphere is very old world with narrow pedestrian walkways and the absence of cars. Until the 1960s, access between each village was limited to the rocky foot paths that are now maintained by Italy's National Park Service.

Vernazza is filled with Italian bravado, the best pesto we have ever tasted, a good selection of wine, cheese, seafood and much to our chagrin, English speaking tourists [the curse of Rick Steves]. In retrospect, I might choose Corniglia as a home base--the one village that is not connected by boat. Corniglia is the most reclusive village and more to my liking. Think slow...

Italy in general is no place for the shy. I highly recommend as with all foreign travel to learn some of the basics when it comes to language--greetings are essential. The talk, energy and attitude is bold, confident and loud with most words ending in a vowel and the next to last syllable being emphasized. Buonjourno! Prego! Grazie! Arrivederci! Macchiato! Memorize the last one--it's the espresso with a little milk added to dilute the strength.

Berlin to Bergamo flying over the Alps.

At 8am our flight from Berlin landed at Bergamo's small regional airport. Bergamo is just to the east of Milan. We picked up our rental car and headed southwest towards our destination--the Cinque Terre. Surprisingly, no international drivers license is required, nor the command of the Italian language! No need to read or understand road signs guys--who needs that?! Welcome to Italia!

Driving on Italy's autostrada proved much easier than one might expect. In addition, there are many Servicios where one can partake in the needed espresso infusion--affordable at .90eu per dose. The food is also amazing at some of these stops, especially in comparison with the crap they serve in the States at the comparable roadside Oasis.

After several hours on the autostrada and another hour spent driving down the mountain, we happily abandoned our rental car. Precariously, we parked it on the edge of the road. I emphasize "edge," Paul literally had to climb out of the passenger door because of the drop off. We were not far from town, already having driven down to the point where Paul hoped to find parking--forever the optimist. The area was manned by two tall and seemingly unfriendly locals who yelled something at us in Italian, which I interpreted as, "Turn around you dumb fuckers! For Christ's sake, can't you see the lot is full! Very animated, they gestured for us to go back from where we came.

Once back up the road, I donned my backpack and what I thought to be my essentials. This was not without a lot of lip from Paul and regardless of the fact that I was the one carrying the load. I am a devout advocate of every person being responsible for their own bags. Paul, however, insisted on leaving all his gear in the car until after we had secured a room. He wanted to be carefree and would return later to retrieve his bags. I preferred to have my stuff on my person, not feeling at all confident that the car would be where we left it upon our return.

After some serious feet pounding we reached Vernazza. I felt really self-conscious and like such a dumb tourist as we schlepped around sussing out the best possible rooms available. Eventually, we settled on a second floor flat with a kitchen. The Italians drive a hard bargain, unrelenting on price, very unlike the playfulness we experienced in Bali. There is no morning price or deductions for good luck. We booked 4 nights and were only able to get the price reduced on two of the nights from 85eu to 75eu. We were assured it was a very good price. The price was lowered only after the owner got permission from his wife.

Our first wandering in the Swiss Alps!

Schynige Platte! No words can describe it. Orgasmic is the closest similiar experience that it can be compared to. A really really good orgasm. An experience that is felt throughout your body, and is full-on emotionally, one that washes you over to the point where you feel you are forever changed. My legs buzzed and I could literally feel the blood and energy moving through them. My heart slowed and recovered from its constant thumping and I was overcome with emotion. My eyes looked out at the most beautiful view and I was overwhelmed with sadness that seemed silly and unexplainable. The elevation may have touched me. I felt gratitude that my feet and legs had continued bringing me forth and these heights were unimaginable.

At the top and breathless, I felt I had truly accomplished something.

Energy Boost!

When the going gets tired the tired get Nespresso! It is the perfect medicine when you have another museum to hit but you are really dragging butt. Immanuel had this groovy little machine and I just had to have one. It's not my first espresso by the way, just my first Nespresso. Guess it was the design and the colorful little capsules. Interestly enough, I bought the most adorable little espresso tower with 6 cups and matching saucers at the Art Mart before I left. It was too cute to pass up even though at the time I wasn't drinking caffeinated beverages.

Gugelhupf...

There was no lacking of baked goodies in Europe. It was difficult to pass by this corner bakery on our Morgärtenring tram stop without indulging our sweet teeth. Yummy!

Museum für Gestaltung in Zürich

Much has happened since the first, last and only post--so much for a consistent line of communication. Hope it doesn't all seem stale. I will try to recap the best that I can. The schedule became a bit overwhelming once Paul met all of his professional obligations. I guess this is the norm when you travel and there is much to do and see in such a limited time frame.

Here we visited a museum exhibit in Zürich based on Gestalt philosophies. If behavior and feelings were only this simple. We could all experiment and report back. The premise, a looking glass to boost your ego. Choose from a variety of topics: sexy, free, young, rock star, genius. On second thought we have all these qualities already. Ok, forget it.

Monday Morning in Basel

Guten Morgen Freunde,

All is well here. We arrived on Saturday, early evening, about half past six. Paul started documenting the signage for the bathrooms in Basel's small airport. Design is certainly at an elevated level here, as one would expect -- no exceptions. I snapped some posters declaring the rights of citizens to publicly demonstrate and protest.




The town seems quite manageable -- small, clean and quietly running, like a well-oiled machine, minus the oil. Prices are what they say. But we don't dwell on that -- it is what it is. In the downtown, store front shops are adorable and ubiquitous, lining cobble-stoned streets, running this way and that, up and downhill.

Immanuel is quite well -- looking as dashing as ever. His flat is very comfortable with floor to ceiling windows in the kitchen and the bedroom that look out onto a lovely natural landscape. The garden has various plants, trees, shrubs, an oval-shaped stoned area and a water garden. He has a small patio adorned with plants and herbs. The exterior walls are painted a bright peachy pink accented with a red trim -- influenced by his landlord's travels to Thailand, I am told. This is unusual for Basel, but I think it's uplifting and for a moment I reminisce about Bali. I like it.

Immanuel has graciously stocked the fridge with a plethora of goods that would impress any foodie. There is everything from Landjäger to Emirates dates in a package resembling a book that opens from left to right -- the opposite of how our books open.

Yesterday morning we visited a flee market where the vendors were largely Turks. They sold everything from underwear, [yes] shoes and antique musical instruments to the common Swiss army knife. There was also good ethnic food and good coffee which we all enjoyed. Nearby, and somewhat hidden are what look like abandoned warehouses. This is a happening party district late in the evening and a place where Immanuel frequents when the mood strikes. The site was literally on the other side of the tracks. One venue, a two-story red bricked train station looked like it was presently occupied by a some squatters.

The weather is a bit on the cool side. The day started off with warm sunlight filling the flat as I did my morning Kundalini practice. Later, it became overcast, breezy with drizzles of rain, but not cold.

At night we visited a traditional Swiss village and dined in a restaurant there. The beer tasted the way a good beer should. Coming soon to smilepolitely.com Paul will have a write up on the meal. My German is non-existent at this point -- I know Guten Morgen, Guten Tag, Ja, Nein, Bitte and Danke. Finally, we ended the evening at home with Immanuel making homemade Tiramisu -- Yum!

Hope to be posting more in the coming days...later in the week we go by train to Zurich to visit a design museum and next week Immanuel has two trips planned for us -- one to Alsace in France, the second to the Swiss Alps. It is very exciting!

Peace, Light & Love,
Bonnie